Dead outlets and switches, traced and fixed
An outlet that stopped working is sometimes a tripped GFCI two rooms away — and sometimes a loose connection quietly warming up behind the plate.
- Typically $100–$250 per outlet
- 1–2 hours
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What outlet & switch repair usually costs
$100–$250 per outlet
Much cheaper per unit when several are done in one visit. A new outlet where none exists is typically $150–$400.
A typical US range to plan around, not a quote — every professional on Task Masters sets and publishes their own price, and you see it before you book.
What a outlet & switch repair job normally includes
- Tracing the circuit to find the actual cause, not just the symptom
- Replacing failed outlets, switches, dimmers and faceplates
- Upgrading to GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages and outdoors
- Correcting loose or backstabbed connections found in the box
- Testing polarity, ground and function before closing up
About outlet & switch repair
Outlets and switches fail in ways that range from trivial to genuinely dangerous, and they look identical from the front. A dead outlet might be a GFCI that tripped elsewhere on the circuit, or it might be a backstabbed connection that has worked loose and started arcing inside the box. An electrician traces the circuit rather than guessing, which is the whole value of the visit.
Repairing or replacing an outlet or switch typically runs $100 to $250 for the first one, and much less for each additional one in the same visit. Adding a brand new outlet where there is not one costs more — usually $150 to $400 — because a cable has to be run from an existing circuit and the wall made good afterwards. Some symptoms should not wait for a convenient appointment: a warm faceplate, a scorch mark, a burning smell, or a breaker that trips whenever something is plugged in. Those are worth an urgent booking rather than a scheduled one.
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Questions about outlet & switch repair
One outlet died but the breaker has not tripped. Why?
Very often a GFCI outlet somewhere else on the same circuit has tripped — commonly in a bathroom, garage or outdoors — and everything downstream of it is dead. Find and reset it first. If it trips straight back, there is a fault worth having traced.
The faceplate is warm. Is that urgent?
Yes. Warmth, discolouration, a buzzing sound or a burning smell at an outlet all point to a loose connection arcing inside the box, which is a fire risk. Stop using it, switch off that circuit at the panel, and book an electrician promptly rather than waiting.
Do my kitchen and bathroom outlets need to be GFCI?
Modern code requires GFCI protection near water — kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, garages, outdoors. Older homes frequently do not have it. It is an inexpensive upgrade and worth doing while an electrician is already on site.
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